If you want to get away from the crowds, head for the backwaters and boatyards of the quieter districts. To the east of San Marco is Castello, hard-working, lived-in and traffic-free; to the south, bohemian-chic Dorsoduro is crammed with artistic treasures; to the north, peaceful Cannavegio's churches are a delight; and in the eye of the lagoon, Santa Croce and San Polo are full of monuments and atmosphere.
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